Q: What colors does Wetlander come in?
A: We have a wide range of colors to choose from, or we can custom match a color for you, based on the RAL Federal Standard color chart.
Q: Does Wetlander work on fiberglass or gelcoat?
Q: Do I need the Primer?
A: Wetlander Primer is not absolutely necessary, but it is important for the overall longevity of the coating; a boat with Wetlander Primer + Wetlander Topcoat will have more protection, and a slicker surface for longer, than a boat with just Wetlander Topcoat. It’s just that simple.
Q: How do I apply the paint to the bottom of my boat?
A: On the average aluminum (or fiberglass boat), the basic directions are as follows: Roughen up the bare aluminum, or a previously painted hull, with 150 grit sandpaper. Wipe the scuffed surface with acetone to remove any oils, dust or foreign contaminants. Then apply the Wetlander Primer using a roller or a sprayer. Let the Wetlander Primer dry for at least 24 hours for the toughest bottom coat possible. After the Wetlander Primer Coat dries, lightly roughen the surface of the primer coat with 220 grit sandpaper. Again, wipe down the freshly roughened primer coat with a damp rag to remove foreign contaminants. Now apply the Wetlander Topcoat with a roller or sprayer. Wait at least 5 days to ensure the toughest and slickest boat bottom. Enjoy the feeling of slippin’, slidin’ and ridin’ through the world faster than ever before. (If you are using the Wetlander 3 Layer Kit, click here for Wetlander Duro-Slick 3 Layer Application Guide).
Q: How long before I can get my boat back in the water?
A: 5-7 days, depending on weather conditions, and most of that time is spent watching the bottom paint dry. We recommend beer for watching paint dry.
Q: What if I have a fiberglass boat?
A: For a fiberglass or gel-coated boat, follow the same instructions as with aluminum hull boats.
Q: What do I do with any leftover amounts of Wetlander Primer or Wetlander Topcoat?
A: First, DO NOT put Wetlander on surfaces that are going to be walked or sat upon. People, dogs, and equipment will slide around and could cause damage. Put it on any surface of your boat that you want to keep clean and slippery. Try putting it in your live well, or the side walls. Put it on a pirogue, a canoe or kayak. Gheenoe, landscaping spikes, paddleboard, etc.
Another option is to catalyze only half of your container of Wetlander, so that you can save some for touch-ups later on. Remember, Wetlander is very easy to touch-up; there is no need to flip your boat and re-coat the entire hull. Just reapply Wetlander in any spots that have been damaged while the boat is on it’s trailer. Easy!
Q: Should I use a sprayer or a roller to apply your bottom paint?
You can use either a sprayer or a roller to apply Wetlander. If you spray, the coating will look more “professional”. If you roll, it will look rolled on. We prefer rollers because they are easy to use and everyone has some experience with them. Since our bottom coatings are water-based, cleanup is a simple wash with warm water while it is still wet. If it drys and/or cures, you will have to use solvent and scrub it off. If you use a sprayer, make sure to flush and clean it out immediately after use.
Q: Can I put Wetlander on top of UHMW poly?
A: Unlike other paints/coatings that cannot adhere to UMHW poly or provide minimal acceptable adhesion strength, Wetlander does in fact have a fair degree of adhesion to 50 grit abraded poly. However, the question remains “Does Wetlander adhere tenaciously enough to withstand the rigors of all-terrain abuse in airboating?”. We here at Wearlon are optimistic, but still in the testing phase. As of right now, Wetlander on top of poly does not pass our strict Quality Control guidelines and, as a result, we cannot officially advocate the application of Wetlander on UHMW poly. But, it may very well work for you and so it will have to be “try at your own risk”, knowing there is a risk of delamination.
Or, you can make a “small” investment and try the Corona Treatment…