Wetlander on Widowmaker Mudboats

FAQ

 

Q:  What colors does Wetlander come in?

A:  We have a wide range of colors to choose from, or we can custom match a color for you, based on the RAL Federal Standard color chart.

Wetlander color chart

 

Q:  Does Wetlander work on fiberglass or gelcoat?

A:  Yes!

Q:  Do I need the Primer?

A:  Wetlander Primer is not absolutely necessary, but it is important for the overall longevity of the coating;  a boat with Wetlander Primer + Wetlander Topcoat will have more protection, and a slicker surface for longer, than a boat with just Wetlander Topcoat.  It’s just that simple.

Q:  How do I apply the paint to the bottom of my boat?

A:  On the average aluminum (or fiberglass boat), the basic directions are as follows:  Roughen up the bare aluminum, or a previously painted hull, with 150 grit sandpaper.  Wipe the scuffed surface with acetone to remove any oils, dust or foreign contaminants.  Then apply the Wetlander Primer using a roller or a sprayer.  Let the Wetlander Primer dry for at least 24 hours for the toughest bottom coat possible.  After the Wetlander Primer Coat dries, lightly roughen the surface of the primer coat with 220 grit sandpaper.  Again, wipe down the freshly roughened primer coat with a damp rag to remove foreign contaminants.  Now apply the Wetlander Topcoat with a roller or sprayer.  Wait at least 5 days to ensure the toughest and slickest boat bottom.  Enjoy the feeling of  slippin’, slidin’ and ridin’ through the world faster than ever before.  (If you are using the Wetlander 3 Layer Kit, click here for Wetlander Duro-Slick 3 Layer Application Guide).

Q:  How long before I can get my boat back in the water?

A:  5-7 days, depending on weather conditions, and most of that time is spent watching the  bottom paint dry.  We recommend beer for watching paint dry.

Q:  What if I have a fiberglass boat?

A:  For a fiberglass or gel-coated boat, follow the same instructions as with aluminum hull boats.

Q:  What do I do with any leftover amounts of  Wetlander Primer or Wetlander Topcoat?

 

A:  First, DO NOT put Wetlander on surfaces that are going to be walked or sat upon.  People, dogs, and equipment will slide around and could cause damage. Put it on any surface of your boat that you want to keep clean and slippery.  Try putting it in your live well, or the side walls.  Put it on a pirogue, a canoe or kayak.  Gheenoe, landscaping spikes, paddleboard, etc.

Another option is to catalyze only half of your container of Wetlander, so that you can save some for touch-ups later on.  Remember, Wetlander is very easy to touch-up; there is no need to flip your boat and re-coat the entire hull.  Just reapply Wetlander in any spots that have been damaged while the boat is on it’s trailer.  Easy!

Q:  Should I use a sprayer or a roller to apply your bottom paint?

You can use either a sprayer or a roller to apply Wetlander.  If you spray, the coating will look more “professional”.  If you roll, it will look rolled on.  We prefer rollers because they are easy to use and everyone has some experience with them.  Since our bottom coatings are water-based, cleanup is a simple wash with warm water while it is still wet.  If it drys and/or cures, you will have to use solvent and scrub it off.  If you use a sprayer, make sure to flush and clean it out immediately after use.

Q: Can I put Wetlander on top of UHMW poly?

A: Unlike other paints/coatings that cannot adhere to UMHW poly or provide minimal acceptable adhesion strength, Wetlander does in fact have a fair degree of adhesion to 50 grit abraded poly. However, the question remains “Does Wetlander adhere tenaciously enough to withstand the rigors of all-terrain abuse in airboating?”. We here at Wearlon are optimistic, but still in the testing phase. As of right now, Wetlander on top of poly does not pass our strict Quality Control guidelines and, as a result, we cannot officially advocate the application of Wetlander on UHMW poly. But, it may very well work for you and so it will have to be “try at your own risk”, knowing there is a risk of delamination.

Or, you can make a “small” investment and try the Corona Treatment

 

Q:  I have a welded aluminum jet boat and am looking for a bottom coating to help keep it from sticking to rocks and gravel bottoms while under way or landing on shore in shallow water. How abrasion resistant is you product? Will it scrape off when pulling up an gravel beaches. Is there a company in Canada that sells your product? Any chance of you sending me a small sample of aluminum that has been coated so I can see how tough it is?

A:  Ken,
Send your address via via email (scott.hogan@wearloncorp.com) and I will send you a coated panel for evaluation.

Wetlander is capable of handling most anything you throw at it, especially when you use Wetlander Primer, too. Multiple primer layers = tough, durable, and long lasting coating. That being said, ANY liquid hull coating is going to wear away after prolonged repeated abrasion cycles. Wetlander works by being so slick, the force of impact on stones or submerged logs is actually vectored-off a bit, lessening the impact and saving the coating (and your hull). If you do take damage, or develop “hot spots” over time, Wetlander is easy to touch-up. Just lightly sand the affected area, then reapply. You don’t even need to take your boat off the trailer in most cases.

We are the manufacturer and we ship to Canada directly all the time.

-Scott

Q:  Has anyone tried this on jetski’s? I rent them in Florida and am looking for something to make the bottom of the ski’s more durable. Any thoughts?

A:  Wetlander can absolutely go onto a jetski for protection.  We have dozens of customers who use it on jetski’s, rental companies and weekend warriors.  It protects the fiberglass and looks great.  It’ll make the ski easier to pull up onto trailer rails, too.

     Mark on July 30, 2012 at 10:52 pm said: [Edit]
Q:  I have an old 1968 16′ aluminum boat its a great boat except it takes in a little water thru rivets on the bottom of the boat will wetlander help seal the bottom?
A:  I have been getting this question a lot lately, and here is my answer. Yes, Wetlander will help stop the water from weeping through small rivet pops and small welding/seam gaps. HOWEVER, stopping leaks is not what Wetlander is designed to do, nor would I ever recommend it as a leak stopping product.
My advice is do it once and do it right: Weld those holes shut, or, use a marine grade sealant/adhesive that works well with aluminum (5200 by 3M is one) and plug up the holes. THEN coat it with Wetlander and you should have no problems with slow leaks.
Great question, Mark.
-Scott

Q:  Hey! I see a question and answer regarding jet boats on inland rivers, but would appreciate clarification and/or confirmation . I run a 19′ jet boat, really intended for big white water, on Montana free stone rivers, fishing and getting around. We ‘park’ by running up on gravel banks and bars, regularly power through very skinny stretches where the gravel and rock bottom goes “tickety tickety tick” on the hull at speed, sometimes intentionally power over gravel bars on our own wake, and occasionally hit a solid rock while drifting, and even under power now and then. It is a very tough welded hull, made for abuse, but I like the “slick” concept. Will your product hold up reasonably in this application, and can one fill in gouges with a little sanding and then just painting on some more finish to the damaged spot? It currently is covered in anti-fouling paint, which looks like hell at this point, and isn’t necessary in our fresh water rivers. Is Wetlander a product I should consider for the re-do? Thanks!

A:  Lefty,

Wetlander would absolutely improve the performance of your jet boat in all the scenarios you just described. You will be able to FLY over dilapidated beaver dams, sand bars and other jump-worthy obstructions without losing your momentum and speed. You will easily re-launch your boat from your improvised parking areas. You will easily slide over all the obstacles that make jet boats so much fun!

That being said, dry gravel bars, sandy beaches, and oyster shoals are some of the most abrasive environments on the planet. If you send a thick aluminum hull, filled with heavy-set guys and a few coolers of beer and ice (who likes warm beer?), zipping along at mach speed, I promise that whatever you have on the bottom of your boat, whether it’s UHMW polymer or Wetlander, it’s going to get torn up over time.
In fact, with Wetlander the ONLY way to get it off of your hull is to wear it away with constant abrasion. As long as the Wetlander is on your hull you will be enjoying higher speeds, easy slidin’ and increased overall performance. How long it stays on there is dependent on how you captain your boat.

If you do get some damage to the Wetlander layer, just hit the hot spot with some 150 grit sandpaper, wipe it clean, then roll on some more Wetlander Topcoat. No need to dre-do the whole bottom; just touch the areas that need it, while the boat is on the trailer. Easy.

So, will Wetlander work better for you than anti-fouling? Absolutely, Yes.
Will it get damaged in the process. Probably. But who cares? It’s easy to fix.

And dude, you have a Jet Boat

-Scott

Q:  Hey just wondering if there are any issues adhering to bondo or jbweld…I’ve got a couple dents on my old aluminum semi-v that I’m in the process of stripping.

A:  You should have no issues with getting great adhesion to JB Weld or Bondo. Personally, I wouldn’t put Bondo on anything that was going to be submerged in water…

-Scott

19 Comments on “FAQ

    • Brian,

      If your HVLP has a 3.0 tip and can reliably push latex paint, then yes, you can use a HVLP. Whatever system you use, test it with some old latex paint from your garage. If it sprays without clogging or spitting, go forward with confidence. I ALWAYS have a roller handy, just in case….

      Another point to consider, these Wetlander coatings have silicone in them. If you are using an automotive gun, the silicone could cause application problems/blemishes in the future.

      -Scott

  1. I have a fiberglass drift boat that I am considering sanding and having Armor coat or Rhyno liner spray on truck bed liner (the smooth coat type) applied to the bottom of the hull for protection against drifting into sharp rocks. The reason is because it’s thick and hard and deadens the harsh sound of like a fiberglass cracking sound and will also bump over sharp objects. I was also considering applying the wetlander product for a secondary protective coating and adding a smooth slick hull bottom over the bed liner product. My question is will the wetlander product work applied to the Armor coat or Rhyno liner products and still give the same strength without chipping, flaking or pealing ?

    • Mark,

      We have applied Wetlander to Line-X and K5 (both are polyurea coating definition, like Rhino and Armor) with success. To get the very best adhesion to these polyureas, it is best if you can apply your Wetlander immediately after applying the polyurea. Most polyureas are receptive and “open” to another coating for about 12 hours after application. So, shoot the polyurea, then have your Wetlander ready to go and shoot (or roll) it on your hull within an hour, if possible.

      The adhesion of Wetlander to fully cured polyurea is good; but it is much better when applied to fresh polyurea.

      I hope I have made that clear. As always, you can call me directly at (518) 469-3612 if you would like to go over this in more detail.

      -Scott

  2. Awesome! I’m excited to put in it on as you recommended right after bed liner material is sprayed on. What do you recommend as far as primary before wetlander? Should I use any primer or single or the two-part primer application?

    • Mark,

      A 2-Layer kit on top of the bedliner would be great. That being said, we have a customer in PA, Premium Protective Coatings, that spray the K5 polyurea, then follows that with straight Wetlander Topcoat. It is your choice. A Wetlander Primer+ Topcoat kit will last longer than topcoat by itself.

      -Scott

  3. I painted my boat off the trailer in a heated garage at about 70°. How long before I can put it back on the trailer?

    • Adam,

      I like to wait as long as possible; 5-7 days is best. However, you can put it back on the trailer sooner, if you HAVE to. Just understand that an uncured coating is a soft coating. The best test for deciding if it is ready for trailering is to press, scrape, and scratch the coating with your fingernail. If it makes a dent, you should wait another 24 hours. If there is no damage or impression, go ahead and trailer it.

      -Scott

  4. i have 20 foot aluminum flat bottom boat how much product do i need to order?

    • Earl,

      A 20 ft flat bottom would usually do better with gallon sized containers, rather than half gallon containers, especially if you plan on coming up the sides at all (which I highly recommend).

      -Scott

  5. I just bought the 90 SQ ft topcoat for my 15 ft riveted alumacraft jon boat… I recently restored it and painted it with Alumahawk primer/topcoat. My sprayer spattered a bit so the finish looks a bit like truck bed liner… It actually looks pretty cool, but i think the bottom needs to be smoother and slick. Just to make sure, I should be able just to sand down the Alumahawk primer and use your topcoat? Should I put more than one coat? if so, how long do I let it dry between coats?

    Thanks

    • Phil,

      I would actually prefer you apply the Topcoat directly to the clean, bare aluminum, or our Wetlander Primer, rather than another product. If you apply over the top of another product, you are 100% reliant upon the adhesion of THAT PRODUCT to keep the Wetlander on your hull. It’s your boat, you should do what you think is best, but that is my advice.

      You should apply the entire container in as many coats as it takes. Your 15 footer will get a good two coats, maybe more. Get it all on there where it can do some good. You apply coats in the same way you paint a wall; once the first coat is dry to touch, apply the next. Repeat until it’s all gone. Clean your roller, or sprayer, then pull your masking tape. Let cure. That’s it!

      -Scott

  6. seems everyone likes your wetlander product. i am interested in the handling of the boat. does the wetlander treated bottom cause any sliding as u turn left or right while under power?

    • Charles,

      I have heard of some lateral sliding with jet boaters and airboaters. Airboaters like to slide, and jet boaters over steer to compensate. Any other boat with a deep keel or longitudinal ribs will stick in a turn with no sliding. The first trip on the water is the learning curve. Take it slow.

      -Scott

  7. Will this product increase the speed of my aluminum 14′ boat. If so by how much approximately.

    • James,

      Every boat is different. Some guys have a very slight bump in performance, others swear they get huge jumps in performance. Here is a quote from an email that just received an hour ago – Drew in OH who coated his jonboat – “Used wetlander on bottom/nose and about 4 inches up the sides and the buoyancy pods. Went from about 14mph to about 20-21 in choppy water.” These types of emails come in fairly often, but I would not call a 6 mph jump “common” to our customers. Most guys get better performance in shallow water, launching and loading, and a bit of an improvement in overall speed.

      I hope that helps.

      -Scott

  8. what is the viscosity of primer and top coat wondering what tip size is recomended for spray application Thanks Keith

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