Wetlander on a Search and Rescue Airboat


Wetlander is as easy to apply as latex house paint.

Due to it’s water based formula,  Wetlander is both safe and easy to use.  If you have ever painted a wall in your home, you can apply Wetlander to your own boat.  Whether you choose to spray it on, or roll it on, you can be assured of the fastest and easiest application available.  No more spreading thick, syrupy goop with a trowel all over your hull, hoping that it doesn’t harden up before you are done, and then watching it crack off in chunks after just a few months.  With Wetlander, you just roll it on and let it dry.

Wetlander roller Application on the Duckboat still 1

No special equipment or protective gear. Just roll it on.


Primer and Topcoat

Application Guide

1) Climate Control:  Try not to apply on days where relative humidity is above 70%, or the temperature below 50°F. Do not apply on rainy days, even if the boat is covered (unless you can add post heat and/or dehumidify the area).  The best environment to apply Wetlander is one that is warm and dry with good air flow.  In warm weather, apply outside in full sunshine.  In cooler, humid weather, apply inside and utilize space heaters, dehumidifiers and fans for the very best results.

2) Surface Prep:  Clean and “roughen up” the surface of the hull by sanding with 100-150 grit paper. This enhances the adhesion of Wetlander to the substrate.
Then, wipe down the entire area to be coated with an acetone dampened rag. This removes sanding dust, oils, waxes and any other contaminants that could adversely affect adhesion. Keep wiping with the rag until it comes away clean.
Lastly, tape or mask off the area to be coated.

3) Choose an Application Method:

.5 inch mini rollerIf rolling,…  Use a 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch roller on a “mini-roller”.  Rolling is the easiest method if your boat is not flipped over and/or still on the trailer.  It is also the fastest in terms of prep and clean-up.  If you don’t have spray equipment, or have never used spray equipment, you should apply with a roller.  Pro-Tip: Keep a foam brush handy for hard to reach areas and welds, rivets, and seams.


husky siphon fed cup sprayerIf spraying,…  Use an airless or air assist sprayer.  This is the preferred method for builders, fabricators and applicators because more coating can be applied at once and provides the smoothest surface.  You should be able apply 10 to 12 wet mils without fear of sagging. Avoid the cheap yellow plastic electric sprayers from the home center.  Pro-Tip:  Always keep a roller handy, just in case your spray equipment fails.

4) Mixing Instructions: Mixing Instructions: Wetlander is a 2-component product. Begin my shaking both the “A” and “B” components violently, at least 30 seconds each. Now, pour the entire contents of component “B” into component “A”. Mix together thoroughly. Only catalyze the amount of coating needed for your project. For example, if you want to only use ½ of the container, simply pour out ½ of the A, and ½ of the B into a clean container. Mix the A and B until completely blended. Once catalyzed Wetlander has a workable pot life of 1 hour.

5) Primer Application:  Begin applying Primer either by roller or spray.   Apply all catalyzed Primer within one hour. When rolling the first coat, Wetlander will fisheye or separate –this is normal.  Simply wait a few minutes and then smooth the coating out with your roller. The fisheye will diminish.  Sprayed Wetlander can sometimes have a slight “orange peel” appearance.  Let the Primer cure for at least 24 hours.  For the very best results, wait 2-3 days before applying Topcoat.  *If you are applying a Wetlander 3 Layer Kit, simply repeat step 5 for both 1L and 2L Primers, then move on to step 6 for 3L Topcoat.

6) Topcoat Application:  Begin by lightly roughening the cured Primer layer with 220 grit sandpaper. After roughening, wipe the Primer surface with a damp rag to remove sanding dust.  Apply Topcoat.

7) Curing:  Wait at least 5 days before putting the boat back into service. If you can press your fingernail into the coating IT IS NOT FULLY CURED YET. Adding heat after application, either by heaters, direct sunlight or other method, will increase the rate of the curing process and will provide a harder coating.  Do not exceed 250 degrees Fahrenheit if using post heat.  Cool and humid conditions will slow the cure, so be patient in those conditions.

Clean Up:  You can clean uncured Wetlander off of your equipment by thoroughly rinsing with water.

Touchups: Lightly scuff the area to touch up, wipe clean with acetone, allow the acetone to evaporate, then apply Topcoat. Allow 3-5 days to cure.


Extra Tips

Masking tape and registration stickers do not adhere well to a Wetlander coated surface. Plan your masking and state ID stickers accordingly.

If you only want to use ½ of a container, simply pour out ½ of the A and ½ of the B into a clean container, and then mix well.

On aluminum boats, try to apply the Wetlander within 12 hours of prepping with sanding. Aluminum does oxidize.

Refer to Wearlon® Wetlander Data Sheet for additional information.

Warning:  Store Wetlander containers at room temperature.  Do not allow to freeze.  Wetlander has a shelf life of 6 months.  To prolong shelf life, shake the bottles often. Contents WILL settle to bottom.

Questions? Call or text Scott Hogan – (518) 469-3612


14 Comments on “Application

  1. On aluminum bottom halls not painted, sanding bottom hall preferred or prepping bottom with aluminum primer paint so Wetlander stick to.

    • Richard,

      To prep your aluminum hull for Wetlander, you simply need to use 150 grit sandpaper all over the area to be coated, then wipe with acetone. Once fully prepped, you can apply our 2-Layer or 3-Layer kit, which include their appropriate primers; there is no need of an acid-etching primer or anything else. You will have everything you need with your Wetlander kit.


  2. It says masking tape and stickers do not adhere well to your product, if I wanted to separate two different colors of wetlander, could I mask the area, apply color 1, unmask and then apply color 2, wiping off any overrun onto color 1? I am assuming that color one would be too slick to let color 2 stick to it right away.

    • Steve,

      That may work, but the transition line will most likely be fairly sloppy. If it was my project, I would apply multiple layers of tape (stacked on top of each other), then apply color #1 on one side, then apply color #2, then pull tape. Your previously stacked layers of masking tape will be in place and ready for subsequent coats of Wetlander. In short, you will have a transition line that is the thickness of the tape you use, and will be uncoated. Does that make sense?

      In my opinion, that is the fastest, easiest and “tightest” way to achieve the two-tone look that you are after. Use good tape, and don’t stretch it when applying it.

      Give me a call at 518-469-3612 if you want a more detailed description, or if you have any questions.


  3. Hey Scott is it still snowing? How long between primer1 & primer 2 applicants for the best results? And do I need to sand no. 1 for adherence to primer 2?

    • Hey Scott, I’ve had this stuff on the boat for 3 months now. WOW!!!! I’ve been up & down the river, Rapids, rocks, stumps & logs, I’ll never put my engine in shallow drive again. I know I’ve hit some stuff but never felt a thing. For y’all who want to know how slick this stuff is, don’t unhook the bow line till trailer’s in the water. Bam!! What was that. Opps. Thank the Lord my boat’s only 13′ and the jet a light 2 cycle & the bow didn’t come all the way off. Pulled on pretty easy. Looking forward to building another boat this winter. Hey where’s all the pictures I sent you? I’ve been looking for them. Keep selling, darn good stuff. DON’T rush it y’all, let it dry.

      • Robert,

        I remember you! Thanks for the kind words. Keep on the lookout for your pics… They may pop up soon.


  4. I live in the Houston Tx area, I am having a hard time finding consistent days with recommended climate. seems like it wants to rain about every 3 days… If I apply during a dry day but it rains a couple days later (boat is in a garage with the door closed) is that a problem? the forecast says humidity doesn’t get about 73% even on the rainy days. I am a little anxious to get this done. the White Bass run is about to start… and if I told them to wait until my boat was ready, I don’t think they would listen 🙂

    • It is important to make sure your Wetlander is on clean and fresh aluminum (or, for glass hull people with the same question, clean and fresh gelcoat). So, yes it is better to sand all the old factory paint off. However, if it is a brand new boat, and you just can’t bring yourself to taking it all off, you can apply Wetlander to a factory paint job. However, you need to understand that any Wetlander you put on that factory paint job is 100% dependent on that factory paint to stay on your hull; so if you trust the adhesion and flexibility of your factory paint, go for it. But I advise taking the old stuff off.


  5. Can it be applied to plastic bottom boats (Craigcat)

    • Johnny,

      If the boat is made of roto-molded plastic, or polyethylene (PE), then no. Wetlander does not get good adhesion to those plastics. ABS- we get great adhesion to ABS, but not PE.


  6. Scott,
    I had the bottom of my 16-foot fiberglass Hyde drift boat done last fall. I can’t believe how slick it is and definitely have to remember to drop the anchor when we hit the gravel bar. Awesome product.

    Unfortunately, I had to have a repair done to the bottom later in the spring. I’m trying to determine how much primer to get. I understand I need to use primer for the repaired gel coat. If I want to spruce up the rest of the bottom, what surface prep do I need to do for the rest of the bottom where it already has Wetlander is was not repaired? Do I need to prime the whole bottom or just the repair areas? Should I wipe it down with acetone? Can I put Wetlander on Wetlander?

    Thanks – Scotty
    Olympia WA

    • Scotty,

      If there is just a relatively small area that needs to be touched up, I tend to go with just topcoat in that area. You can put Wetlander on Wetlander with the proper prep work: The prep is to just lightly sand the area, wipe it clean with acetone, and then roll-on more Wetlander topcoat. Multiple coats will help to alleviate fisheye and make it look better. You need to lightly scuff existing Wetlander because once it cures, it becomes a non-stick surface that will repel liquids, including a liquid version of itself; hence the scuffing and wiping.

      I hope that makes sense. Let me know if it doesn’t.


Leave a Reply

%d bloggers like this: